Friday 15th February saw the start of the second fashion week of fashion month in the form of London Fashion Week. New York is always a hard act to follow, but because each fashion week has its own unique aesthetic London did it in true British style. Quirky, bold and thoroughly inimitable, London is the ultimate platform for new up and coming designers to showcase their collections. As each year passes the designers become more wacky, more challenging and more keen to push the boundaries of fashion and out-do themselves. Opinions have been divided in the JulesB office this week, some of us loved the darker, more grown-up collection which Mary Katrantzou showcased while some of us preferred the crazy collection of Vivienne Westwood’s Red Label. Everyone adored Karlie Kloss, Cara Delevinge and Jourdan Dunn in Christopher Bailey’s Burberry show and we all loved the overall new feel of London Fashion Week. While LFW has previously been a mish-mash of clashing colours and street-style bloggers, this year felt more luxurious and more fashionable. London’s all grown up and we couldn’t be happier. Here’s a round-up of our favourite shows from the week.
Moschino Cheap and Chic
The Moschino Cheap and Chic show was held in The Savoy Ballroom at this year’s London Fashion Week and was a sensation. Every bit as desirable and luxurious as the mainline Moschino label which shows its collection at Milan Fashion Week, the Cheap and Chic Moschino girl this autumn will be the ultimate Princess Punk. Textured fabrics of fur, embellishment and leather stormed the catwalk, with tough black platforms providing contrast against pretty pink drop waists. The accessories were just as tough as the punk outfits, with thigh high boots, black platforms and heavy cat-eye sunglasses on each model creating an extra edge. We loved the constant anticipation the collection created, just as we thought we were seeing a few pretty pink dresses we were rocked back to planet punk to see a safety-pinned skirt or a metallic jacquard suit. The AW13 Cheap and Chic collection is exciting, dynamic and bold. Although the overriding theme was thoroughly punk, there’s no denying the princess who just couldn’t resist colour-co-ordinating her manicure to her outfit. If you can’t wait to shop the AW13 looks, you can shop the Moschino Cheap and Chic sale at JulesB online now.
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
With Dame Vivienne, we always expect the unexpected. Her bold, colourful, patterned aesthetics was larger than life for the showing of her Red Label AW13 collection, which was shown at the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea. A few looks nodded to the South West London location with a cardigan and collier necklace styled together with a pencil skirt while the rest of the collection was the embodiment of the Westwood woman silhouette and design. The collection was quirky, British and was unmistakably Westwood. Rules do not apply to Dame Vivienne and we don’t expect them to, so clashing metallics and pink paired with orange isn’t even brow-raising in a Red Label show. The only thing which nearly detracted from another outstanding collection was the make-up. Was it too scary-clown or was it an innovative move forward for beauty trends? You decide, we’re reserving judgement.
The AW13 Paul Smith collection was shown inside the Tate, in the shadowy, atmospheric Duveen Galleries. The dramatic backdrop was the perfect setting to show off the rich satins and colours which made up the AW13 collection from Paul Smith. The British designer showed a quintessentially British collection, with heritage shapes and casual tailoring. The rich autumnal colours of red, teal, purple and blue were the perfect accompaniment to the relaxed fits of the clothes. The collection was made up from a host of separate pieces, showcasing the effortless talent and vision of the design team. Tailored trousers paired with ruffled shirts, dresses with a tailored blazer nonchalantly over the shoulders and structured skirts with little tops reminded everyone that there is nothing Paul Smith can’t do. Paul Smith is consistently, and softly, modest in its collections. It never dramatically pushes the boundaries of ready-to-wear or demands attention, instead it is quietly confident in the knowledge that the new London designers can compete, but they cannot win. The collection was thoroughly well-received, very wearable and very British. The clashing colour palette made it all the more interesting and we can’t wait to shop it. Shop the Paul Smith Black and Paul by Paul Smith collections at JulesB now.